Constantino Pereira Martins, ‘Big waves, big questions: Philosophical implications in the surfing experience’, https://idrottsforum.org/pereiramartins240402/, idrottsforum.org, Malmö University (April 2, 2024)
It’s about a culture, a newborn tribe, and a collective identity that thrives within the strength of a global outdoor community. This sense of belonging is reinforced by philosophical assumptions besides a political and economic evidence: the ocean is freedom, and the sea is the last free place on the planet. You can go to the beach and the only thing you need is a board. This fact implies, and relies, on other significant determinations regarding phenomenological and spiritual dimensions. (…) The surf phenomenon inhabits a certain fluidity that, between mindfulness and adrenaline, shows that being at the mercy of the primordial elements is not just a material communion, but also entails poetics, spiritual and religious dimensions.
Link
https://idrottsforum.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/pereiramartins240402.pdf